Jordan & Ukraine
“One day you’re visiting the holy city of Jerusalem, then diving with squids in Eilat, seeing a wonder of the world, and the next you’re spending 2 hours walking bent-backed in complete darkness underneath Kiev and emerging from a manhole!”
By Shri & Firuza
Jordan
Crossing the Israel/Jordan Border –
This process was definitely quicker and more seamless than getting past the Israeli passport control. We took a taxi from Eilat to the border and made our way through 3 separate check points. While you will have to pay exit taxes on the Israeli side, entering Jordan does not require a VISA if you purchase a Jordan Pass in advance. Not only does this allow you entry without buying the VISA, it also gets you free entry to most of Jordan’s key attractions which includes Petra. As prices are likely to fluctuate over time we won’t include there price of the Jordan Pass here but urge you to check online before you travel to see how much it costs.
Once we got to the final checkpoint, we had our passports checked in a smoke-filled room. The cloud of smoke was coming from one official sitting at a desk at the back while the other official checking them sat at a desk at the front. Against a wall in the middle was a man who was not wearing uniform but instead an untucked shirt and who had a slight slouch. This man kept talking in Arabic every few minutes which was followed by laughter from the two other officials. Our guess was that either he was their superior (hence no need to wear the uniform) and they felt obliged to laugh at his jokes, or the Government had hired him to crack jokes and keep up entertainment and good spirits at border control. If it were the latter then what a fantastic idea! We should have this in every industry!
We soon made it through to the end of the border and walked towards the taxis. Behind us, and now making their way to the final check point were 2 Chinese tourists who little did we know, would be following us throughout our entire trip of Jordan all the way from Eilat….
Wadi Rum –
Welcome to the Kingdom of Jordan, home of Petra (a modern wonder of the world), friendly welcoming locals and a currency that is higher than that of the British Pound (so not your cheap Asia travel destination)!
We took a taxi from the border straight to Wadi Rum desert where we would be staying at a camp for the night. Once we arrived we were given extremely sweet tea before embarking on a half day desert tour on 4X4. Our Chinese friends from the Eilat border had also joined us to start the tour and it turned out they had the same plan of destinations in Jordan for the remainder of their trip.
We split into separate groups and jumped into the back of our vehicle which had a canopy erected to provide shade. Our driver Ali then took us around to several viewpoints within the desert, including many scenes that were used in Lawrence of Arabia (which we now need to watch). At one point we stopped at a sand dune with the intention of ‘sandboarding’ down it using what can only be described as a snowboard. Ali had mentioned that we should go down on the opposite side to which we came up which made sense when we were at the bottom. But when we got to the top, we saw that the opposite side was full of rocks – surely he didn’t expect us to go down this way! We questioned his judgement, our sanity, and the chances of surviving going down this way before eventually looking for an alternative route. Eventually we found what he had meant and shot down at a super slow speed. It was still a lot of fun and Shri wanted to do it again and so cleverly climbed back up the way we had come down. But after getting halfway up, the incline, heat of the desert and lack of breeze forced him come down from this point – but a little faster this time.
From then on there was about 2 hours’ worth of walking, climbing, driving and picture posing. Between one of the drives, Ali randomly got out of the car, engine still running and car still moving and let us know he had to attend nature’s call with urgency in his voice. We did warn you that there would be urination in strange places in this blog and here it is again. In the meantime the car continued at a slow speed edging closer to the Saudi border at 5 mph. Ali eventually came back looking much happier and after this seemed to drive with a bit more care.
It was in the back of this car, as we looked around at the vastness of this desert and the rocky surroundings we realised just how amazing this place was and how much we were enjoying the travel. Even though this trip had been based around Petra and seeing our 3rd out of 7 wonders of the world, it was dawning on us that actually it was the journey which we were enjoying the most and not just the result of seeing another wonder.
We made it back to the camp in time to watch sunset before eating dinner together with everyone in the main building of the campsite. The food had been cooked earlier that day and then foiled and covered over with sand and left to cook in the ground, preserving its heat throughout the day. The rice and meat did indeed have a very smoky taste which was magnificent and complimented by a great assortment of vegetables and hummus dishes. Then it was time for a bit of stargazing. Our camp did not have glass roofing on the cabins, yet we were made aware of another camp (fully booked at this time) which did from where you could literally sleep under the stars – if you ever visit Wadi Rum this would be highly recommended (just try avoid when there is a full moon, as it’s harder to see the stars).
Overall, a fantastic experience, one of our trips highlights and the camp staff were great! If we do go back to Jordan then this place will be on our list again! Oh and did we mention that our Chinese friends also ended up at our camp in Wadi Rum?
Petra –
Taking a bus from Wadi Rum direct to Petra was straight forward, but as only one went per day it meant another early morning start (about 5 days in a row of this now)! We arrived late morning in the city of Wadi Musa where our accommodation was located and within walking distance to Petra’s entrance. Note we opted for the bus as this was the cheapest means, with Taxi being an expensive option. During our travels we did note that it was becoming more common for other travellers to drive in Jordan which offers probably the cheapest means of transport and allows you to control your travel times by not relying on buses. If you do ever decide to drive there (or any foreign country) just make sure you download the MAPSME app – this app basically works like google maps except you can use it offline (so no data charges) and once you have downloaded the specific country then you’re all set! We got off the bus and said goodbye to our Chinese friends (yes they took the same bus as us to Petra) and checked into where we were staying.
When we arrived at the entrance of Petra we had a dozen people run up to us offering to be our tour guide for the day. We had already decided that we were going to do Petra without a guide as it was straight forward enough to walk through ourselves and we would read up about the ancient city as we went. Nevertheless, some people do prefer guides and if you are one of those people just make sure that you get an official guide from the visitor centre and not one of the gypsy one’s outside dressed like Captain Jack Sparrow with more eyeliner than Kim Kardashian who will charge you excessive amounts (we had a tip off from one of the French girls at the Wadi Rum camp).
Once in Petra we started making our way down the path towards the famous and iconic ‘Treasury’. Petra is an archaeological city established by the Nabataeans around 4th century BC. The area was chosen due to proximity to local trade routes and in indeed Petra did become a major trading route. It has been a UNESCO World Heritage site since 1985 and became one of the 7 Wonders of the World in 2007.
As we walked along the Siq (the gorge through which Petra is accessed) we couldn’t help but notice the mixed stench of horse, donkey and camel faeces which was lined along the path. Lots of locals offer donkey and camel rides and promise to give their ‘best price’ to you. However, it’s worth noting that the horse rides are included as part of your entrance fee. We declined the horse rides as we wanted to walk, much to the bemusement of the people offering the rides who kept on saying ‘but it’s included, it’s free’. We suspect that they probably do ask for some kind of tip at the end.
As we approached the clearing where the treasury was located, we could hear a buzz coming from round the corner. This grew louder and louder until we entered the clearing, now looking up at a truly magnificent structure carved out of the rock which was the ‘Treasury’, the iconic feature of Petra. If this had been a bustling hub for trade thousands of years ago, well nothing had changed too much! Hundreds of tourists were crowded round taking pictures of the Treasury, while it was also packed with locals trying to sell merchandise, camel and donkey rides, walks up to the top of the rock and much more. Not to mention, it was full of camels waiting for prospective riders to mount them which added to the sense of business, bustle and hustle. We spent some time here too but decided we’d get the best shots when we returned the next day (the Jordan Pass we had allowed 2 days of free entry).
We also did the ‘Petra by night’ tour. The site closes at around 6 and then opens just after 8 for a night show. Having been to this night show, with lanterns lit up all around the Siq as you enter, we can confidently say that we strongly do not recommend ‘Petra by Night’! Everyone gathers at the Treasury and then sits down waiting for the show to start. Once it started a man played a flute for about 10 minutes before someone eventually spoke – although we couldn’t really hear what they were saying amid the chatter and restlessness of the crowds. Eventually lights were turned on reflecting off the face of the Treasury which was nice but not more spectacular than the day time view. So avoid that option unless you really love flute music by night, or listening to frustrated Brits and Canadians complaining.
The next day we entered the site early and got to the Treasury (we were now pros at walking here) before hardly any tourists had arrived. Instead there was a film crew with a drone, trying to get in as many shots as possible before the tourists and camels and Jack Sparrows arrived. We took a few shots and then made our way to the Monastery which was supposedly a 2 hour hike away.
We were joined by an Irishman part way along who had gotten lost twice on route. We ended up getting there fairly quickly after that (or maybe because he talked a lot it just felt a lot quicker) and looked up at the Monastery. This structure was almost as magnificent as the Treasury and is well worth the hike if you don’t mind breaking a bit of sweat. After this we did another trek, not sure what it’s called but it is the green one shown on the map above the Royal tombs. When you get to the end of this one you end up opposite the Treasury and elevated above all of Petra. We took a moment here after pictures to take in the atmosphere from above. You could hear the hustle and bustle of below, the donkeys and the tourists but there was something special about being elevated above it all and we closed our eyes to try and hold the memory of these sounds. The view is the most spectacular in all of Petra, and if you do go there then make sure you do this trail – we have some pictures attached for you too.
After this we did another trek, not sure what it’s called but it is the green one shown on the map above the Royal tombs. When you get to the end of this one you end up opposite the Treasury and elevated above all of Petra. We took a moment here after pictures to take in the atmosphere from above. You could hear the hustle and bustle of below, the donkeys and the tourists but there was something special about being elevated above it all and we closed our eyes to try and hold the memory of these sounds. The view is the most spectacular in all of Petra, and if you do go there then make sure you do this trail – we have some pictures attached for you too.
Amman –
Well we didn’t really see much of Amman which is Jordan’s’ capital city. The bus from Petra to Amman was about 3 and half hours and we arrived close to 9pm. We hadn’t booked accommodation, what with our flight leaving at 3am we decided we’d check out the city. We found a hotel close by, and asked nicely at reception if they would be willing to hold our bags for a few hours before we headed to the airport. Amazingly they agreed and even gave us beverages and organized a cab for us after – they are getting a great review from us!
The part of Amman that the bus dropped us off in was very residential and not the bus station that we anticipated ending up in – apparently there is more than one! We ended up eating in a busy restaurant where nobody spoke English except one person and the 14 year old on the table behind so it worked out in the end. Walking around the local area, it suddenly dawned on us that there weren’t any sights to see, and the only places that were open were shisha bars – in fact, there were tonnes of them. Firuza also pointed out that there were no women in any of them – leading us to realize that the last time we had seen a woman was back in the restaurant with the family of the 14 year old boy. We decided that we’d head to the airport early but managed to check out a local supermarket (kind of like a Target equivalent in the US) that sold everything and where the staff were extremely happy to be receiving two British customers.
Please do note that there are places to visit in Amman (included on the Jordan pass) and markets to haggle in, but we were not fortunate enough to see them on this occasion. But you can and should – just check the bus routes better than we did 🙂
Ukraine
Kiev –
Well this is it, the last leg of the trip. We landed in Kiev completely shattered having not properly slept on the plane – when we got to our hostel it was too early to check in – so we explored the city!
We started off walking around on our own taking in the views of the autumn leaves which was pretty impressive even on the drive from the airport to city centre). We jumped into a free walking tour (well worth it) of the city which covered all of the origins of the city as well as some of the Soviet past prior to independence in 1991. We learned that the name of the city is derived from one of its founding fathers – Kyi (allegedly a Viking); we learned the origins of the blue and yellow flag, witnessed some magic with coins (that’s what the guide called it) and learnt what’s good to eat in the city! Overall well worth it (considering it’s free and you need only give a tip if you enjoy your experience).
We managed to have a taste of the famous Chicken Kiev for lunch – well just Shri, Firuza stuck to her gluten-free diet of course. We explored the local market where they sold everything from socks and magnets to toilet paper with Vladimir Putin on each sheet – well that is the political climate in the Ukraine at the moment.
We then decided it would be fun to descend into the deepest metro station in the world – Arsenalna. The escalator ride took a whole 4 and a half minutes (yes we did time it) and was completely uneventful other than us watching the stop clock. If you are at this point wondering if we got off at a station, rode the escalators up and down and then got back on the train then yes – that is exactly what we did and no regrets (although Firuza did give Shri quizzical looks throughout the descent as if to ask what was the point of this)!
For our final activity in Kiev, we did something peculiar even for us. We had learned on our original plane ride where we read the magazine of Kiev and what you can do there, that the city had subterranean waterfalls deep beneath it. Apparently, due to being built on 7 hills, they had developed a sophisticated drainage system underground (nothing to do with sewage) and tours were now offered to see the largest of Kiev’s underground waterfalls. We went to the meeting point in Dnipro station knowing that we were supposed to meet in the main hall. But we couldn’t figure out where the main hall was – it turned out that we had been in the right place to start with but it was so empty that it didn’t feel like the right place. Our guide, Uliana met us at the specified time and took us to get suited and booted ready to head underground. We were the only people on the tour.
We then descended into some drain halfway down the street with headlights on our head, prepared to be down under for over 2 hours. After walking for what felt like an eternity for Shri who had to keep his back bent the entire time (Firuza could stand at certain points) we reached Kiev’s largest subterranean waterfall. Our guide then explained that during winter this area could fill up quite significantly and that the water level would be pretty much up to our chests where we stood (she was the same height as Shri).
We proceeded with the tour and soon learnt that this was a real passion for our guide who had been doing this for many years now. She explained that she often comes down here without anyone else to relax – yes exactly! She even explained how people who know how to get down there often come to get some alone time and may take a beer or two with them – one of her friends apparently went down every day for over two months after breaking up with his girlfriend – we asked if this helped but she said she was not sure.
We turned off the headlights at one point to experience pitch black darkness – we’ve been in caves before in the Americas and well, this was just as dark. On our journey out we came across a bat that was not sleeping. Uliana gestured that we should go one-by-one and to make sure that we cover our face and drop to the floor in case it flies towards us, She went first followed by Firuza who clearly did something to irritate it; next minute it was flying towards Shri whose poor eyesight did not allow him to react until it was about 2 inches close to his face. He dropped to the floor covering his head and let the creature pass. It was only 10 minutes later when he asked that Uliana confirmed that the bats in that tunnel did bite and would likely carry rabies – great!
After 2 and a bit hours, having seen many stalagmites, mini waterfalls, sleeping and non-sleeping bats and calcified water, we emerged through a drain cover next to a motorway some distance from where we descended. Some people will ask why we choose to spend 2 hours walking around under Kiev and being hunched, susceptible to rabies-biting bats and covered in dirt – we are still asking ourselves that question! Firuza glanced at Shri as if to say ‘what did we just do?’ and he glanced back to say ‘I know, I know’.
But it is now part of our lives and funnily enough we wouldn’t change it. It was an enjoyable way to finish off the tour even if not what we had expected and at this point we were both ready to sleep before our flight back home. Just a shame we we didn’t get to see the world’s most handsome man…
Finally –
Well that’s it! In the space of just over a week we’ve had one heck of an adventure. One day you’re visiting the holy city of Jerusalem, then diving with squids in Eilat, seeing a wonder of the world, and the next you’re spending 2 hours walking bent-backed in complete darkness underneath Kiev and emerging from a manhole! You couldn’t write this stuff!
Well we loved it and can’t wait to go again in December when we head to China for the next wonder – The Great Wall.
Thanks for reading
Shri & Firuza
